Death Trooper

Model Deathtrooper, Photo by None
Description: Death Trooper
Prefix: TK
Detachment: First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment
Context: Star Wars: Expanded Universe

The Death Troopers were introduced in a Star Wars Expanded Universe novel of the same name. The book follows the classic zombie outbreak story, but set on a Star Destroyer. The Death Troopers were later used in Star Wars Galaxies and represented by Gentle Giant as a bust.

This Visual Guide has been reviewed by the detachment staff and the LMO team and is certified for use as a minimum approval guideline for GMLs. GMLs are free to approve this costume type.

This is a visual guide used for 501st costume approval, not a how-to for construction. Construction details are found at the costume's Detachment website. Measurements provided here are are generalized, and not criteria for approval. All 501st costumes are proportionate to the wearer in terms of size, fit, and scale. During evaluation, both text and images (CRL and Reference) must be considered. When in doubt about a feature of a submitted costume, GMLs should post questions in the Legion forum's DL/GML peer review section.

Required Costume Components

The following costume components are present and appear as described below. For 501st membership only the requirements in black need to be met. This Detachment defines additional, optional costuming details listed in blue and red. Please visit the Detachment website for more details on these options.

Special Notes: EVA foam & Similar materials are not approvable. Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy. A Blaster is required for level 2 and above. Armor is scaled proportionately to the wearer. 3D printed components must have no visible print lines and must be smooth for a realistic appearance. Visit the Costume FAQ page for information on the Rubies Supreme Stormtrooper costume. FX armor may not be used for Level 3 approval. FX helmet is no longer permitted for new approvals.

Please note: This particular costume may not be welcome at all 501st events. This is not recommended as a primary Legion membership costume. Please contact your garrison CO/GML with any questions if you are planning to create one.

Helmet

Armor have a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
If any large areas are missing from the helmet and skin is exposed, it is covered with zombie-like prosthetic skin.
Armor may have some stains to emulate aged dry blood.
Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not accurate.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray.
Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.
Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.
The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are gray or painted gray, with a black outline.
Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.
Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.
Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.
Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.
Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.
Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted.
Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.
Note: The FX helmet is considered deprecated (to be avoided), though is acceptable for Legion requirements.
Note: A stock (out of the box) MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmet does not meet the basic 501st requirements without the major modification that are necessary. Please visit FISD/whitearmor.net for more info on these modifications.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Armor has some stains to emulate aged dry blood.
Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not accurate.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
Ears have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar, and one at the base of the helmet.
Ear bars have four bumps only, not three.
Traps/ tears and tube stripes have the correct ANH TK details.
Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips.
FX helmets are not allowed.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmets are not allowed.
ANHv2 helmets are not allowed.
Ear bars have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes).
Neck trim is of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.
Tears/traps are hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details).
The vocoder must be integrated into the helmet, and not a separate piece.

Neck Seal

Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.
Neck Seal is distressed/ worn.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Neck Seal may have some rips/missing areas in the material. If any skin is exposed it is covered with zombie-like prosthetic/ mask.

Under Suit

Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs.
Under Suit is distressed/ worn.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
The under suit may have some rips/missing areas in the material. If any skin is exposed it is covered with zombie-like prosthetic skin.
Some areas of the Under Suit have Worn/old looking mummy style bandages.

Shoulder Straps

Straps are securely mounted in front and may free float in back.
They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.
No visible rivets are allowed.
Straps have a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
Armor may have some stains to emulate aged dry blood.
Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not accurate.
One Shoulder Strap may be omitted from this costume (either left or right but not both).
If a Shoulder Strap is omitted, it is replaced/ tied with worn/ old looking mummy style bandages, to help hold the chest and back together.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Shoulder straps are aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
Straps free float in back.
Straps are glued in front.
The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.

Shoulder Armor

One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and should have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.
Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
Armor may have some stains to emulate aged dry blood.
Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not accurate.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

Upper Arm Armor

Biceps are fully closed.
Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
One bicep may be omitted from the costume (either left or right but not both).
Armor may have some stains to emulate aged dry blood.
Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not accurate.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
Biceps are constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method.
Not overlap construction.

Forearm Armor

Forearms are fully closed.
Armor has a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
Armor may have some stains to emulate aged dry blood.
Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not accurate.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.
Forearms are constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method.
Not overlap construction.

Hand Plates

Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.
Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
One Hand Plate may be omitted from the costume (either left or right but not both).
Armor may have some stains to emulate aged dry blood.
Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not accurate.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
Hand guards are latex or latex-like, painted white, and affixed to rubber gloves in lieu of plastic hand guards.

Gloves

Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.
Gloves are distressed/ worn.
If any skin is exposed it is covered with a zombie-like prosthetic skin.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Gloves are rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black.

Chest Armor

Chest armor overlaps the abdominal armor.
Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
Armor has some stains to emulate aged dry blood.
Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not accurate.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
Chest armor may have one of the top corner/ shoulder strap areas missing.
If opting to damage/ remove this area of the chest armor, the remaining area is strapped with Worn/ old looking mummy style bandages, to help hold the chest and back together.
May have blaster wounds.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
Chest and back armor are connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.
AM chest armor is replaced with a more screen accurate version.

Back Armor

Center detail section of back armor contains a "O II" design.
Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
Armor may have a few stains to emulate aged dry blood.
Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not accurate.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
Back armor may have one of the top corners/ shoulder strap areas missing.
If opting to damage/ remove this area of the back armor, the remaining area is strapped with Worn/ old looking mummy style bandages, to help hold the chest and back together.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
Back armor has minimal to no overlap of the kidney armor.
AM back armor is replaced with a more screen accurate version.

Abdomen Armor

The abdomen armor has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 blue + 6 gray); buttons are approximately 7/16" (11mm) in diameter.
Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
Armor has some stains to emulate aged dry blood.
Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not accurate.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide.
Any shims used to achieve this effect are made of a similar material and color as the ab and kidney armor.
Shims fit flush and seams are allowed.
Armor has some stains to emulate aged dry blood.
Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not accurate.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
The abdomen armor may have large missing/ broken off area or areas.
If any large area is exposed it is covered with zombie-like prosthetic skin.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
There is no open gap between the ab and kidney armor, just a single visible seam line.
Rivets on the left side of the abdomen armor : a total of three fasteners, the heads are rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16" (8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: For the original TK armor the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets.
A single male snap on the top right corner of the abdomen armor is present.
A single split rivet or brad is present on the lower center tab of the abdomen armor.
Rivit does not need to be functional.
Abdomen armor buttons are integrated and painted directly on the armor.
Not separate buttons.

Kidney Armor

A separate kidney armor piece is present, split from the posterior armor.
Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Three rivets are present on the left side of the kidney armor, the heads are approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not.
Note: For the original used TK armor, the type of rivets used were bifurcated rivets or split rivets.

Posterior Armor

Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
A separate posterior armor piece is required, split from the kidney armor.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Two male snaps are present on the lower center tab of the posterior armor.
Snaps do not need to be functional.

Belt

Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).
The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering.
Size is 2.75” (70 mm) to 3.25”(83 mm) wide and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt.
The color is white to off-white and has a distressed old look.
The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.
Belt has a distressed/cracked/damaged look.
Armor may have some stains to emulate aged dry blood.
Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not accurate.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
There are three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end of the plastic ammo belt.
One drop box may be omitted from the costume (either left or right, but not both).
If opting to remove one of the drop boxes, the white strap that the drop box normally hangs from is ripped/ torn.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
Drop boxes have full inner boxes to close the back.
Flat covers are not allowed.
Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box.
The corners of the plastic ammo belt are trimmed at a 45 degree angle.

Thermal Detonator

Detonator attaches to the center back of the belt.
Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint.
The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end.
The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap.
The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm).
The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide.
Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps.

Thigh Armor

Thigh armor is closed in the back.
The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.
Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
Armor may have some stains to emulate aged dry blood.
Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not accurate.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
Thigh ammo belt is attached to thigh with a solid head rivet or fastener in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Standard pop rivets are not allowed
The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt are rounded off.
Thighs are constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method.
Not overlap construction.

Lower Leg Armor

Greaves close in the back.
The trapezoid knee section (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.
The AM greaves (shins) are on the proper legs, with a new cover strip.
The cover strip edge faces the inside of the leg.
Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on whitearmor.net
Armor has a distressed/ cracked/ damaged look.
Armor may have some stains to emulate aged dry blood.
Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not accurate.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Armor has some stains to emulate aged dry blood.
Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not accurate.
Armor is aged white with some areas having a drab olive greenish and yellowed tint.
Sniper knee plate is aligned with the ridges on the shin.
Sniper knee plate does not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
Lower legs are constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method.
Not overlap construction.

Boots

Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material.
Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle.
Flat sole with a short heel.
No buckles or laces.
Jodhpur/ Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable.
Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.
Boots are weathered with an aged white color and areas of drab olive greenish and yellowed tinting.
Boots have a distressed/cracked/damaged appearance.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Boots have some stains to emulate aged dry blood.
Liquid / permanently wet fake blood is not accurate.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
There is no seam present on the front of the boot.

Optional Accessories

Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use.

Holster

If a holster is worn, it is made of black leather or leather-like material.
Worn on the left side of belt and be attached from behind, with no loops covering the outside of the belt.
The holster is affixed with two fasteners at the bottom of the belt instead of none or four.
The fasteners may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.

Mummy Style Bandages

It is optional to have some Worn/old looking (mummy style) bandages. The mummy style bandages may be wrapped loosely around some areas of the costume, but not over 30%.

Zombie Prosthetic Pieces

Individual latex pieces or latex like Halloween mask, hands or body parts.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Prosthetic pieces are finished with professional quality makeup.

E-11 Blaster

Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Folding stock (does not need to function).
No ammo counter is present.
D-ring mounted on the rear.
Correct style scope.
No power cylinders on the magazine housing.
Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters have a total of 7 U shaped channels on blaster (all holes on barrel are covered).
If using the popular commercially available Stormtrooper blasters, grind off the T-tracks and replace them with U shaped channels and cover the open rows of holes (total of 7 U shaped channels in all).
Correct style greeblies, on the left rear area, are present.
"Door catch" and two "hammers".

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.
Forward D-ring is mounted underneath the front sight on the left side of the barrel.
Use of the correct front sight (which differs from ANH and ESB).
The scope rail is unique to ROTJ E11 and is not like the normal open ANH/ESB scope rails, but is a solid, one piece, with a unique sight design on the front. The scope connects to the notched out area of the solid rail. The scope is of the correct design (as the ones seen in ROTJ), and is attached to the scope rail via one scope mount.
The muzzle will be unlike the normal ANH style. It is flat with two counter sunk Allen bolts (one located at the four o’clock position and one located at the ten ‘o’clock position).
The "door catch" is the correct style.
Not a "close enough" attempt as seen on the Cinemastery blaster.

DLT-19 Blaster Rifle

Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
A DLT-19 is a real word MG-34, with T-tracks present on barrel, ejection port cover added to one side, and small disk present on left side.